# Building a Small Greenhouse from Scrap Materials

Creating a small greenhouse from scrap materials can be a rewarding and sustainable project. Not only does it allow you to repurpose materials that might otherwise go to waste, but it also provides an opportunity to grow your own plants and vegetables in a controlled environment. In this blog post, I will guide you through the process of building a small greenhouse using readily available scrap materials.( You could also opt for a cheap poly tunnel as well. Just make sure to watch some videos on how to beef one up before you take the leap. )

## Materials Needed
Before starting your project, gather the following materials:
– Old windows or glass doors
– Wooden pallets
– Nails/screws
– Hinges
– Transparent plastic sheeting
– Bricks or cinder blocks
– Tools (hammer, saw, drill)

## Steps to Build the Greenhouse
Follow these steps to construct your small greenhouse:

1. **Select a Location**: Choose a suitable location for your greenhouse, ensuring it receives an adequate amount of sunlight throughout the day.

2. **Base Construction**: Use bricks or cinder blocks to create a sturdy base for the greenhouse. This will provide stability and help elevate the structure.

3. **Frame Construction**: Using the wooden pallets, construct a simple frame for the greenhouse. The size of the frame will depend on the dimensions of the windows or glass doors you have available.

4. **Install Windows/Glass Doors**: Attach the old windows or glass doors to the pallet frame using hinges. This will serve as the roof and walls of the greenhouse, allowing sunlight to penetrate while protecting your plants.

5. **Door and Ventilation**: Create a door for easy access and consider adding ventilation by leaving gaps or installing adjustable vents.

6. **Covering the Sides**: Use transparent plastic sheeting to cover the sides of the greenhouse, ensuring it is securely attached to the frame.

7. **Finishing Touches**: Secure any loose ends, add weather-stripping to the door, and make sure the structure is stable and safe.

## Tips and Considerations
– Utilize salvaged materials such as old storm windows, PVC pipes, or even discarded lumber to minimize costs and reduce environmental impact.
– Ensure the greenhouse is well-ventilated to prevent overheating and allow for air circulation.
– Regularly inspect the structure for any signs of wear and tear, especially if using older materials.

## Benefits of a Small Greenhouse
Building a small greenhouse from scrap materials not only promotes sustainability but also offers several benefits:
– Extending the growing season for plants
– Protecting delicate plants from harsh weather conditions
– Creating a controlled environment for seed starting and plant propagation

By following these steps and considering the tips provided, you can construct a small greenhouse from scrap materials, allowing you to enjoy the rewards of homegrown produce and a sustainable approach to gardening.

# Preparing a Garden Bed: A Step-by-Step Guide

Creating a garden bed is an exciting endeavor that can bring beauty and productivity to your outdoor space. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a beginner, preparing a garden bed requires careful planning and execution to ensure the best results. In this blog post, we’ll walk you through the essential steps to prepare a garden bed for planting.

## Step 1: Choose the Right Location

Selecting the right location for your garden bed is crucial for the success of your plants. Consider the following factors when choosing a spot:

– **Sunlight:** Most vegetables, flowers, and herbs require at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day.
– **Soil Drainage:** Ensure that the chosen location has good drainage to prevent waterlogging.
– **Proximity to Water Source:** Having easy access to a water source is essential for watering your plants.

## Step 2: Clear the Area

Before you start preparing the soil, clear the area of any existing vegetation, such as grass, weeds, and rocks. Use a shovel, hoe, or a weed trimmer to clear the space effectively. I personally cut any unwanted vegetation off at ground level leaving the roots in the soil.

## Step 3: Test and Improve the Soil

Testing the soil is an important step to determine its pH and nutrient levels. You can purchase a soil testing kit or send a sample to a local extension service. Once you have the test results, you can improve the soil by:

– **Adding Organic Matter:** Incorporate compost, well-rotted manure, or peat moss to improve soil structure and fertility.
– **Adjusting pH:** If the soil is too acidic or alkaline, you can adjust the pH by adding lime to raise the pH or elemental sulfur to lower it.

## Step 4: Create Defined Edges

Use a garden hose or spray paint to mark the boundaries of your garden bed. This will create a defined area for planting and make the garden bed visually appealing.

## Step 5: Till the Soil

Using a garden tiller or a shovel, loosen the soil to a depth of 8-12 inches. This process helps improve aeration and allows plant roots to penetrate the soil more easily. Or don’t,  no dig gardening is better for the microbes that live in your soil. If it’s hard adobe or barren soil, it might help to till some organic materials into it.

## Step 6: Add Mulch

Applying a layer of mulch over the prepared soil helps retain moisture, suppress weed growth, and regulate soil temperature. Organic mulches such as straw, wood chips, or shredded leaves are excellent choices.

## Step 7: Consider Raised Beds

If your soil is of poor quality or drainage is an issue, consider building raised garden beds. Raised beds provide better control over soil conditions and are ideal for areas with heavy clay or sandy soils.

## Step 8: Plan Your Planting Layout

Before you start planting, plan the layout of your garden bed. Consider the mature size of your plants, their sunlight and water requirements, and any companion planting principles to maximize the productivity of your garden.

## Step 9: Start Planting

Once your garden bed is prepared, it’s time to start planting your chosen seeds or transplants. Follow the planting depth and spacing recommendations for each type of plant to ensure optimal growth.

## Conclusion

Preparing a garden bed requires careful attention to detail, but the rewards of a thriving garden make the effort worthwhile. By following these steps, you can create a well-prepared garden bed that provides a nurturing environment for your plants to flourish. Happy gardening!

Remember, gardening is not only about the plants but also about the joy and satisfaction it brings to those who tend to them.

  Happy gardening.

There may well come a day when we will need to be able to forage as well as hunt in order to eat.

The Art of Foraging: A Beginner’s Guide

Foraging, the act of searching for wild food sources, is an ancient practice that has seen a resurgence in recent years. Whether you’re interested in connecting with nature, sourcing organic foods, or simply enjoying the thrill of the hunt, foraging can be a rewarding and educational experience. In this blog post, we’ll explore the basics of foraging, including safety tips, popular foraged foods, and how to get started on your foraging journey.

Getting Started

Research and Education

Before venturing into the wild to forage, it’s crucial to educate yourself about the local flora and fauna. Invest time in studying guidebooks, attending foraging workshops, and reaching out to experienced foragers in your community. Understanding the plants and mushrooms in your area is essential for safe and successful foraging.

Respect and Sustainability

Foraging should always be approached with respect for nature and sustainability in mind. Only harvest from areas where foraging is permitted, and never collect more than you need. It’s essential to leave plenty of plants behind to ensure the continued growth and reproduction of wild species.

Safety Tips

Identification

The golden rule of foraging is to never consume anything you can’t positively identify. Some plants and mushrooms have toxic lookalikes, so it’s crucial to be 100% certain of what you’re picking. When in doubt, always consult a knowledgeable forager or a reliable field guide.

Avoid Contaminated Areas

Be mindful of the environment in which you’re foraging. Avoid areas that may be contaminated with pesticides, herbicides, or other pollutants. Roadside areas and industrial zones should be avoided due to potential contamination.

Proper Gear

Equip yourself with essential foraging gear, including a good pair of gloves, a small trowel for digging, and breathable bags or baskets for collecting your finds. Proper gear not only aids in safe foraging but also ensures minimal impact on the environment.

Popular Foraged Foods

Wild Berries

From sweet strawberries to tart blackberries, many delicious berries can be found in the wild. However, it’s important to note that not all wild berries are safe to eat, so proper identification is crucial.

Wild Greens

Edible leaves such as dandelion greens, wild garlic, and sorrel are commonly foraged for their fresh, earthy flavors. These nutrient-packed greens can be used in salads, soups, and other culinary creations.

Mushrooms

Mushroom foraging is a popular activity for many nature enthusiasts. However, it’s essential to be extremely cautious, as some wild mushrooms are highly toxic. Only consume mushrooms that have been positively identified as safe for consumption.

Conclusion

Foraging can provide a deeper connection to nature, a sustainable food source, and an opportunity to learn about local ecosystems. However, it’s important to approach foraging with caution, respect, and a commitment to sustainability. By following the guidelines of responsible foraging, you can enjoy the abundant gifts that nature has to offer while preserving the environment for future generations.

# Restoring Cast Iron Cookware: A Step-by-Step Guide

Cast iron cookware is cherished for its durability and excellent heat retention, but over time, it can become rusty or lose its seasoning. Restoring cast iron cookware to its former glory is a satisfying and worthwhile endeavor. In this blog post, we’ll provide you with a comprehensive guide on how to restore cast iron cookware.

## Materials You’ll Need

Before you begin the restoration process, gather the following materials:

– **Steel wool or a stiff brush**
– **Mild dish soap**
– **White vinegar**
– **Baking soda**
– **Vegetable oil or shortening**
– **Paper towels**
– **Oven**

## Step 1: Removing Rust

1. **Scrub the Cookware:** Use steel wool or a stiff brush to scrub off any rust or stuck-on food particles. If the rust isn’t extensive, you may be able to use a mild dish soap and warm water. If it’s really bad, you can use a wire wheel on a drill or grinder or even electrolysis to remove the rust. Don’t worry, you more than likely will not hurt your cast iron, and if you do, it will be because it was too far gone to save. Though, if you resort to these methods, make certain you or someone who will be helping you knows what they are doing.

2. **Vinegar Soak:** If there are stubborn rust spots, create a mixture of equal parts white vinegar and water. Submerge the cookware in the mixture and let it soak for a few hours or overnight. And though some may disagree with this, toilet bowl cleaner works wonders and is much faster than vinegar. Just be extra careful. It’s caustic and can and will burn eyes and skin if it gets on you.

3. **Scrub Again:** After soaking, scrub the cookware again to remove any remaining rust. Rinse and dry thoroughly.

## Step 2: Re-seasoning

1.** Preheat your oven to 350-400°F (175-200°C).

2. **Coat with Oil:** Apply a thin layer of vegetable oil or melted shortening to the entire surface of the cookware, including the exterior and handle.

3. **Baking Process:** Place the cookware upside down on the middle oven rack. Place a sheet of aluminum foil on the bottom rack to catch any drips. Bake for 1-2 hours.

4. **Cooling:** Turn off the oven and allow the cookware to cool completely inside the oven.

5. **Repeat if Necessary:** For severely damaged or rusted cookware, you may need to repeat the oil coating and baking process multiple times to build up a good seasoning.

## Maintenance Tips

– **Avoid Soaking:** To prevent rust, avoid soaking cast iron cookware in water for extended periods. Instead, hand wash with mild soap, dry immediately, and lightly coat with oil after each use.
– **Use Gentle Cleaning Tools:** When cleaning, use a soft sponge or brush to preserve the seasoning.

By following these steps and practicing proper maintenance, you can restore and maintain your cast iron cookware for generations to come.

Happy cooking!

Building a Cold Frame: A Beginner’s Guide

As winter approaches, many gardeners are looking for ways to extend the growing season and protect their plants from the cold. One effective and affordable way to achieve this is by building a cold frame. A cold frame is a simple and versatile structure that acts as a mini greenhouse, providing a warm and sheltered environment for plants to thrive even in colder weather. In this blog post, we’ll walk you through the steps to build your own cold frame.

Materials Needed

Before starting the construction of your cold frame, gather the following materials:

• Four wooden boards or concrete blocks for the base
• Additional wooden boards for the frame
• Hinges
• Clear plastic or glass panels for the lid
• Screws or nails
• Latches or hooks to secure the lid
• Hammer or screwdriver
• Saw

Steps to Build a Cold Frame

Step 1: Choose a Location

Select a location for your cold frame that receives ample sunlight, preferably facing south to maximize exposure to the sun.

Step 2: Build the Base

If using wooden boards, arrange them in a square or rectangular shape to form the base of the cold frame. If using concrete blocks, stack them to create the base. Ensure that the base is sturdy and level.

Step 3: Construct the Frame

Using the additional wooden boards, construct a frame on top of the base. The height of the frame should accommodate the height of the plants you intend to grow inside the cold frame. If building a frame is an issue, I have dug a hole in the ground just a little smaller than the old wooden window that I used for the lid and then used the dirt I removed to construct a crude frame and seal the edges.

Step 4: Install the Lid

Attach the clear plastic or glass panels to the frame using hinges, allowing for easy access to the plants inside. Make sure the lid can be propped open for ventilation on warmer days. An old window will work as well.

Step 5: Secure the Lid

Install latches or hooks to secure the lid in place, especially during windy conditions.

Step 6: Prepare the Soil and Plant

Fill the cold frame with nutrient-rich soil and plant your desired vegetables, herbs, or flowers. You can also put seed starter trays or pots in it as well.

Tips for Maintaining Your Cold Frame

• Monitor the temperature inside the cold frame regularly, especially on sunny days, to prevent overheating.
• Open the lid on warm days to allow for ventilation and prevent the buildup of excessive heat and humidity.
• Close the lid in the evening to retain heat and protect plants from cold nights.
• Insulate the cold frame with additional layers of clear plastic or bubble wrap during extremely cold weather.

By following these simple steps, you can build a functional cold frame to continue gardening well into the winter months, or have a way to start plants in early spring. Not only will this extend your growing season, but it will also protect your plants from frost and harsh weather conditions.

Happy gardening!

It sounds a bit like something from a sci-fi movie. And I’m sure there are those who will point a finger at this post and exclaim not today, Satan! However, this is a topic that I recently stumbled across. And it interests me quite a bit, so much so that I will be setting up to try it.

Plant Cell Culture: Understanding the Basics

Plant cell culture is a branch of biotechnology that involves the aseptic culture of plant cells, tissues, or organs in an artificial nutrient medium under controlled environmental conditions. This technique has numerous applications in plant biology, agriculture, and pharmaceutical research. Here’s an overview of the basics of plant cell culture.

Types of Plant Cell Culture

1. Callus Culture

• Callus is an unorganized mass of dividing cells derived from plant tissues. It is often used as a source of undifferentiated cells for further manipulation and regeneration of whole plants.

2. Suspension Culture

• In suspension culture, cells are grown as a suspension in a liquid medium. This technique is commonly used for the production of plant secondary metabolites and recombinant proteins.

3. Organ Culture

• Organ culture involves the culture of entire plant organs such as roots, shoots, or embryos. This technique is valuable for studying organ development and regeneration.

Applications of Plant Cell Culture

1. Micropropagation

• Plant cell culture enables the rapid production of large numbers of identical plants from a small piece of plant tissue. This is widely used in the commercial production of ornamental plants and crops.

2. Genetic Modification

• Plant cell culture provides a method for introducing foreign genes into plant cells, facilitating the production of genetically modified plants with desirable traits such as resistance to pests or tolerance to environmental stress.

3. Production of Phytochemicals

• Plant cell culture can be employed to produce valuable phytochemicals, including pharmaceutical compounds, flavors, and fragrances, in a controlled and sustainable manner.

4. Research and Conservation

• Plant cell culture is utilized in research to study plant physiology, biochemistry, and genetics. It also plays a role in the conservation of rare and endangered plant species through techniques such as cryopreservation.

Techniques and Challenges

1. Sterile Technique

• Plant cell culture requires strict aseptic techniques to prevent contamination, often involving the use of laminar flow hoods and sterilization methods.

2. Medium Formulation

• The composition of the culture medium, including the balance of hormones, nutrients, and growth regulators, is critical for the successful growth and development of plant cells.

3. Subculture and Maintenance

• Regular subculture and maintenance of plant cell cultures are necessary to prevent cellular aging and maintain the genetic stability of the cultures.

Conclusion

Plant cell culture is a versatile and powerful tool with diverse applications in plant science and biotechnology. Its potential for contributing to agriculture, medicine, and ecological conservation makes it an essential area of study and innovation within the field of plant biology.

  Below is a link to a video that I’d found that got me interested in the process.

Plant cell culture.

Tips for Successful Seed Starting

Starting your own plants from seeds can be a rewarding and cost-effective way to grow a beautiful and productive garden. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a beginner, here are some essential tips to help you successfully start seeds and nurture them into healthy, thriving plants.

Selecting Seeds

• Choose high-quality seeds from reputable suppliers to ensure better germination rates and healthy plants.
• Consider the climate and growing conditions in your area when selecting seeds, as some plants may be better suited to your local environment than others.

Timing

• Refer to a seed starting calendar or guide to determine the best time to start seeds indoors based on your local climate and the last frost date.
• Different plants have different germination and growth periods, so be mindful of the specific timing requirements for each type of seed.

Containers and Soil

• Use clean, sterile containers with drainage holes to prevent waterlogging and promote healthy root development.
• Select a high-quality seed starting mix that provides good aeration and moisture retention to support seed germination and early growth.

Planting and Germination

• Follow the recommended planting depth and spacing guidelines for each type of seed to ensure proper germination and prevent overcrowding.
• Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged to create optimal conditions for germination.

Light and Temperature

• Provide adequate light for seedlings by placing them in a sunny location or using artificial grow lights to promote strong, healthy growth.
• Maintain appropriate temperatures for germination and seedling growth, as different plants have specific temperature requirements for optimal development.

Watering and Feeding

• Water seedlings gently and consistently to keep the soil evenly moist, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot and other issues.
• Once the seedlings have developed their first true leaves, start feeding them with a diluted, balanced fertilizer to support healthy growth.

Hardening Off and Transplanting

• Gradually acclimate seedlings to outdoor conditions by exposing them to sunlight and outdoor temperatures before transplanting them into the garden.
• When transplanting seedlings, handle them carefully to avoid damaging the delicate roots and provide them with adequate spacing and support in the garden.

Monitoring and Care

• Keep a close eye on your seedlings for signs of pests, diseases, or nutrient deficiencies, and take prompt action to address any issues that arise.
• Regularly monitor moisture levels, light exposure, and overall plant health to ensure that your seedlings are thriving.

Conclusion

By following these tips and being attentive to the needs of your seedlings, you can increase your chances of successful seed starting and enjoy the satisfaction of nurturing your own plants from the very beginning. Happy gardening!

I’ve started calling my compost bins a system. Which may not make sense to some. However, to me, it does.

I place everything in the first bin and continue adding to it until it’s full, I noticed during summer it was breaking down quickly, so I just kept adding to it.

The bins are made using pallets that, at least for now, are zip tied together. I made the first by twisting wire around them but found they weren’t pulling together quite as tightly as I would like. So I switched to large zip ties and used the tool they make to get them tighter than you’ll generally get them by hand.

Anyways, back to why I consider this to be more of a system than just bins. As I stated, everything goes into the first bin to start breaking down.

I lined the bottom with a layer of cardboard to make sure no weeds or grass would start growing into my compost. All three bins have the same cardboard linings as I’m currently fighting bindweed.

When it’s time to turn the first bin, I take my trusty pitchfork and turn it over into the second bin to finish breaking down.

When the second bin is finished, the compost is then shoveled over into the 3rd bin and is finished. It stays there until I need it for filling seed starters and planters, etc.

To back up just a bit, I have one bin of finished compost. But it’s in the second bin for now as the 3rd one is filled with leaves that were given to me. Nearly 30 large bags full, in fact I haven’t dumped them all out yet. They sit wet in the bags, making leaf mold.

So next spring I will clean the leaves out and move my finished compost over, turn my first bin into the second and start filling the first one again.

The youngest boy kept saying he wanted to jump into a big pile of leaves. He even started to rake up leaves and started to build his own, so I did this for him. I’m happy to report that he had a great time and broke the leaves down wonderfully. We both got something from it.

On the east end of my bins is the beginning of the new chicken coop. If you’ve been visiting my blog, you may have read how a dog destroyed out first coop and killed our flock.

I’ll go up another 2′ -4′, 6′, or I may dig down a couple of feet. I’m still in the figuring it out stage.

Thank you for stopping by, feel free to share your compost successes and or failures.

  I started 72 more seeds today. Part of the tray was a new variety of tomatoes, and the 20 cells or so was a new pepper I wanted to try.

  The tomatoes are supposed to get on the bigger side, and the peppers are around 30K scoville in heat.

  I’m really looking forward to trying both of these. I’ll start some more seeds tomorrow.

  I’m currently using seed starting trays but want to eventually start using soil blocks or another type of tray, I’ve seen some that are open on the corners with an open bottom to air prune the roots and cut down on transplant shock.

  Those, however, are a bit out of my price range for the time being. However, if I can sell some plants as I’m hoping to, I may use some of the money to buy bigger and better trays. I’m currently starting my seeds indoors.

  After I get some more work done on the greenhouse, I’m hoping to be able to grow whatever I wish in it through the winter months.

   A  walipini would be ideal, and I may attempt one come spring, I’ve been wanting one for a while now and think I have almost everything I’ll need except time. Time is always in short supply for the things I want to do, it seems.

In any event, spring is approaching, and I’m feeling a bit more alive all the time. I tend to get in a bit of a funk during the winter until it’s time to start seeds and such. It won’t be long before there will be enough light to start working outdoors again.

I have a couple of raised beds to finish up and more containers to cut the bottoms out of so I can get them filled up and ready for plants.

I also plan on doing some more videos for YouTube and Tictock. The youngest, Brayzen, keeps telling me he wants to be a youtuber, I’ve gotten him a green screen and what I believe to be a decent camcorder.

He likes to help me whenever he sees I’m recording so you’ll no doubt become more accointed with his always smiling face.

We will also finish up the chicken coop in time for spring. I guess I also need to look at my blog from a different perspective. From what I’ve read, a typical blog post should be around 3K words.

Personally, when I’m reading someone else’s blog, I prefer shorter articles because I always feel pressed for time.

With working full time, raising three younger children and trying to get a handle on the homestead life so transitioning to a larger property will go more smoothly, vloging and blogging along with whatever else comes up during a normal day, there just isn’t enough time and once I get to around 400 words, I feel like I’m being a bit windy if you know what I mean.

In any event, I will try to work my way up into longer blog posts and hopefully increase the quality of the content as well. Since I’m mostly just sharing what we are doing and how things are going for us here, that may not be such an easy task.

Thank you for stopping by.

But I’m stoked for springtime and being able to put plants out.

Around the 15th of January, I put 89 beefsteak tomato seeds in a starter, and so far, it looks like I have a pretty good germination rate.

It’s still a bit early to tell for certain how many will actually sprout, but I like my odds so far. There will be plenty of tomatoes for us. My hope is that there will be enough plants to sell as well.

Tomorrow, I’ll put some pepper seeds in and see how they go. I got the soil in the starter soaking today and will either put them in first thing in the morning or during my lunch break.

I like to try new plants every year. You never know when you’ll find something that’s easy to grow or that you’ll really like.

Below are the new things I’m trying this year. I’d tried the bok choy last season, but I got it out a bit late, and summer temps came in fast, so it all bolted on me. I had two more plants come up from the seeds and have them in the greenhouse in hopes they will overwinter, but I’m not sure they will survive the subzero temps we had.

My hopes are to be able to put up enough food to last us for a year. Last year was the first time I seriously tried to, and it was dismal at best.

I did manage to grow a fair amount of food, but we had a monster hail storm, and it wiped most everything out.

This year, I will be adding bird netting. Not only will it help to protect things from hungry birds, but it’s also said to minimize hail damage.

The greenhouse has withstood everything that winter has thrown at it, including 70mph winds and snow. So I will be adding on to it as soon as the nights start to get just a bit warmer.

I was given 13 sheets of 4X8 sheets of polycarbonate, so I will be doubling the size of my little greenhouse and more than likely build another one at the other property, but time will tell.

It seems time goes so fast that I seldom have the luxury of time to see all of my plans through in one season. I, of course, keep plugging away, constantly working to make life at least a little bit better each year.

Thank you for stopping by!